Skye Trail day 8: the final act

Loch Langaig – Rubha Hunish 13km After the previous day’s efforts, I woke up feeling like I’d aged by a few decades. I was all puffy and stiff. The tent was pretty wet inside from condensation. It had been a very still night and no wind means less ventilation, so naturally this was meant to…

Skye Trail day 7: broken but strong

The Storr – Loch Langaig 29.5km Today was the big day. I find that for every trail, there’s a big day. A day you’ve read about in the guide that sounds epic. A day you’re not convinced you have the right level of experience and fitness for. A day people you come across on trail…

Skye Trail day 6: pathless encounters

I didn’t take the time to journal on day 6 so this account is retrospective. The thing is, day 6 was dominated by an annoying incident. This patronising “know it all” dude who was hiking the Skye Trail North to South crossed path with me and gave me a good slice of mansplaining, arrogance, misogyny…

Skye Trail day 5: happy halfway

Sligachan – Portree 19km Sligachan provided some much needed comfort and the first dry night of the trip so far. I slept very well after my excellent mussels dinner at the hotel though I must say that the camping spot I picked was a bit too close to the road for my liking. With the…

Skye Trail day 4: sun, lochs and jagged peaks

Camasunary – Sligachan Everyday marks a new set of improvements and today was no exception. I woke up to dry weather after a few spells of rain during the night. My clothes too were dry, with the exception of my shoes and socks but I could live with that. No point starting with dry feet…

Skye Trail day 3: a Cuillin reward

Torrin – Camasunary I went to bed with the sound of the rain and woke up with the birds singing. Either they were being very loud or the rain had stopped. I motivated myself to get up and put on my wet shoes to check out the weather. Everything still looked wet but it wasn’t…

Skye Trail day 2: kindness over sunshine

Boreraig – Torrin I woke up multiple time during the night to check that the river hadn’t come out of its bed. I could hear it all night. It flowed fast and heavy and I was having nightmares of my shoes being taken away by the water. Thankfully by morning they were still there and…

Skye Trail day 1: off to a wet start

Bradford – Boreraig Since coming back from the Pyrenees, I’ve been feeling pretty restless. Any time spent at the computer has to be traded against time outside. That’s a promise I made to myself. If I’m going to work hard Monday to Friday then I plan on making the weekends count. I don’t agree with…

One Hourquette is better than none (wine is the best anti inflammatory)

HRP Day 10: Gavarnie to Héas (18km, 1,285m ascent via the Hourquette d’Alans – 2,430m) I reluctantly left Gavarnie at 6.50am, knowing that I had a significant climb ahead and unsure my tendinitis could take me all the way. As soon as I entered the Arribama Forest, I started feeling unwell. The kind of unwell…

Town vortex and social creatures

HRP days 8 and 9: rest in Gavarnie I made myself extra comfy for the night and woke up on my 8th day at 9.30am. Ridiculously late for trail’s standards. But I was not to go on trail today so I tried to not feel guilty about it. On a normal day I’d have started…